The Most Poetic Island of Greece Away from Tourists: Zakynthos Slow, Rediscovering the Pleasure of Traveling 'at Leisure'

Anyone planning a vacation in Zakynthos will surely come across dozens of agencies offering excursions to Shipwreck Beach, the Blue Caves, Turtle Island, the Keri Caves, and more. In this travel diary, you won't find any organized trips: I am not attracted to the idea of sharing a day under the sun on a crowded boat full of screaming people, nor am I appealed by the notion of chasing a poor, frightened turtle just for a photo to share on social media. A. and I opted for a slower approach to Zakynthos.

The flight departs from Verona at 5:30 AM, an hour late because we are informed that the flight crew is missing and we clearly have to wait for them. The announcement came when all passengers were seated on the plane with their luggage stowed and seatbelts fastened: we're off to a great start! Somehow we arrive at Zakynthos airport, our contact for the car rental is waiting for us and we quickly take care of the arrangements.

We then head to Gerakas beach, famous for its turtle egg laying, and we take the opportunity to grab sandwiches and focaccias for lunch to enjoy on the beach, as well as some sunscreen. We spend the morning at the beach and then venture up Mount Skopos to visit Panagia Skopiotissa. We probably took the wrong road because it turns out to be a very rough and rather long dirt path. The church was closed, but the lady who runs the caravan bar kindly offered to open it for us and show us around.

We retrace our steps back on the dirt road and decide to take one last swim at Dafni beach. Finally, we check in to our apartment in Zakynthos city and enjoy an aperitif at Wine Bar Carré followed by dinner at Spartakos on the waterfront of Zakynthos. We opt for a mixed grill for two and a bottle of wine for a total of €80.

The fish was good and well-grilled but not abundant, and the wine was just okay. We return to the wine bar and pick up a bottle of wine to enjoy on the terrace of our apartment.

We are ready to leave our apartment and explore the island when we realize we can't find the keys to the car parked at the airport: panic sets in. We turn the house upside down, go back to Dafni, return to Gerakas but there is no sign of the keys. Mogi Mogi decide to continue with the vacation (we had already lost 3 hours of the morning!!) but I realize that I need to go back to the apartment because I forgot my water shoes.

Miraculously, I find the remote control for the air conditioner in my suitcase (what was it doing there??) and decide to rummage around a bit, and there appear the keys. With a lighter heart, we finally set off for the day!

Our first real stop is Plakaki beach, which we find closed due to fire risk. We stop to see the wells of Andronios, the Damianos caves at Agalas, and have a completely vegetarian lunch at To Diafokoreiko, a cute little tavern where we were the only patrons. We had deliciously cooked vegetables and fried feta for a total of €21, which I highly recommend.

Then in the afternoon we went on a grand tour of the west coast. In order, we visited Porto Steniti (which is undoubtedly our favorite sea access), Porto Limionas, and Porto Roxa. Both Steniti and Limionas are fjords; if you swim to the end, you'll see the walls come together like gorges, and the tiny beach you arrive at in both cases seems to be the mouth of a small river originally, then a delta later on.

After Porto Roxa, we have a refreshing shower and a tasty dinner at Stathmos on a side street in the city center. Tonight we dedicate ourselves to traditional cuisine so we have lamb roast, lemon pork, and local Zakynthos wine from the Grampsas winery for a total of €47. We were very satisfied and indeed decide to return to try the fish.

The day is dedicated to the southwest area of the island, but first we visit the small village of Bochali, particularly the church and its castle. The church is very charming, as is the view one enjoys. The castle is actually just a wall that houses a pine forest and some ruins of a small church, the ancient prisons, and the powder magazine. Afterward, we attempt to go to Plakaki, unfortunately it is also closed again today.

No worries, we stick to the plan and enjoy a long swim at Marathia beach (actually the bay adjacent to the main beach). This is a bay with large white pebbles, the color of the sea is wonderful, and the atmosphere is very intimate and cozy. I confirm the smell of tar and diesel that I had read in some reviews; in our case, it was mild and came in bursts, but I don't think it was related to the presence of boats nearby.

Right above the bay is the tavern Votsalo where we decided to have lunch. A. is crazy about sardines, and in this tavern, they served him a very generous plate. My dish was quite abundant too, a Greek salad. Total bill with water and Mythos €32.50. We felt good there, especially because the view was fabulous, the environment well-kept, and the ingredients high quality. The only slightly off note was seeing the cook smoking in the kitchen while sitting on a stool: now I don't care at all, but the first page of their menu asks guests not to smoke so as not to disturb other potential patrons; I found it a bit incongruous, that's all.

After lunch, we head to the village of Limni Keri and find a spot in the shade of a tamarisk tree, here we enjoy a refreshing nap and then a swim. Since we are near the Myzithres stacks, we decide to go to Keri Lighthouse tavern to admire the beautiful panorama and take the opportunity to refresh ourselves with two iced coffees.

For dinner, we stay in Zakynthos city and enjoy three pita gyros for €15.50 at Mythos. The evening continues with a bit of shopping, as I need a short-sleeved t-shirt and a purse.

We want to return to Carré to get a bottle for the terrace but they have already closed, so we resort to Carrefour express and pick up a bottle of wine from the local Solomos winery.

Last attempt to visit Plakaki beach, but we are still unlucky due to fire risk. We do not lose heart and go explore Karakonissi. I recommend very comfortable shoes for going down to the beach and then rock shoes to access the sea. When we arrived, there was only another couple present, but in about an hour, several families and couples appeared. It is a very rocky sea access, but quite sheltered; here the sea also enters like a small fjord.

We grab some sandwiches from a bakery on the road and cheese from the local dairy and decide to have a quick picnic in the shade of a tamarisk.

We continue north without missing the ancient olive tree, the Anafonitria monastery (closed) and the Agios Georgios monastery. We also attempt to visit the viewpoint overlooking Shipwreck Beach, but this road is also closed due to fire risk.

The compass points north and we head to Filippoi beach, a very rocky beach without shade, the sea was a bit choppy, but as always, beautifully clear. A. dives in while I wait, enjoying the crashing waves. A little hunger creeps in, so we go to the village of Volimes and stop at the Koskino tavern to eat two pita gyros and drink a beer. The kind owner treats us to fresh basil for A., jasmine flower for me, and a mixed fruit plate. Total bill €14 including tip.

We decide to go back to our beloved bay, Porto Steniti. There are no more than ten swimmers and the peace reigns supreme, the sun kisses us. Unfortunately, the water from the magical bay upset my digestion, I quickly exit but a sense of nausea will not leave me for several hours. Today's program still includes a visit to the Venetian Tower, so we gird up our loins. Once we arrive at the Tower, the scenery is so beautiful that it makes me forget my discomfort, so I insist that A. come down with me toward the sea along the path. A terrible idea: the road is rugged, and it must be traveled on foot for a comfortable 30 minutes; towards the end of the road, there's even a landslide, and we proceed on a trail, once we arrive, there is no access to the sea as the road ends at a 20-meter cliff. Under the scorching sun, still carrying my legs, and returning uphill. My head was pounding and the nausea obviously returned.

Exhausted, we return and park the car with difficulty in Zakynthos city at 9:30 PM. Quick shower and a 10-minute rest. I wanted to stay in the apartment to rest and regain strength, but then I thought I would be too hungry during the night, so I invited A. to eat a light fish dish in the square.

We went to Alektor, but we didn't find it so nice: we ordered two slices of swordfish and a bottle of water, the fish was accompanied by an unknown sauce, and I decided to ask the waiter what it was, but he never replied; I then ask for the bill and no one comes, I ask again and a man appears telling me that the bill was €34, with a swift round of words, he keeps €40.

Dissatisfied with what happened, I bid farewell to the waiter, who raises the stakes and asks me if we have paid, I reply yes, and he asks me if I am sure we paid. Now, it's okay to be patient, but when it's too much, it's too much. I read the reviews and discovered that this attitude on the part of the restaurant is indeed a modus operandi. Quickly, we return home for a peaceful rest, finally.

Kalimera kalimera! Well-rested, we finally head out to explore the east coast. Our first stop is Makris Gialos beach, partially equipped and then free. The sea is very beautiful with pebbles that make the water clear and turquoise. We stop here until lunchtime and then continue on our route north, stopping at the Mandrakia tavern for a tasty lunch of salad and fried calamari (bill of €30.60). After lunch, the little cove just below piques our curiosity, and we decide to see it up close; it is really tiny, but unexpectedly a space in the shade of the large tamarisk opens up, so I suggest to A. a little nap.

We sleep like babies for a few hours, and then we decide to take a dip in the crystal-clear waters of Mandrakia. The only slightly off note is that there are numerous small boats docked in the bay, but they make the setting even more picturesque to see. Thus we begin our return to Zakynthos Town and cannot resist exploring Kremidi beach and then one of the three Xigia beaches.

It was already late afternoon when we arrived at Xigia, the cove was all in shade and we laid out our beach towel right where another couple was picking up theirs: this gives you an idea of how crowded it must have been during the day. Definitely, we are headed back to town, after a quick shower we return to Stathmos to try its seafood cuisine: two very fresh sea bream, an appetizer, and a bottle of wine from the Grampsas winery for €65.

Since this is our last evening at Zakynthos Town, we cannot miss saying goodbye to our friends at Carré where we treat ourselves to a final glass of wine. While I order the wine from the girls at Carré, A. runs to Carrefour express, he spotted a bottle from the prestigious Gaia winery and wants to taste it during the next two days of vacation.

It is bustling in the city, and we are happy to be staying in the countryside for the next two days.

We leave our lovely little apartment and continue discovering the east coast of the island. Our first stop is Skinari Lighthouse to admire the view that unfolds before us in solitude. The coast is rugged, the sea is choppy, and before us stretches a tongue of land. Nearby, there is a famous sea access point; you need to get near the Windmill tavern and descend about 200 steps. Here you can either dive in or enter the water using the appropriate stairs.

The sea isn't particularly choppy on this side, but I had read that it was advised to come in the morning to avoid this potential issue. Numerous boats for organized trips stop in this area for one of their swims of the day, therefore there is a certain crowd, music, and chatter among some kids and their parents. After a swim, we make a brief stop at Climati bay and have lunch at the lovely To Pardosiako tavern in Alykes.

A. opts for a light Moussaka, while I choose sweet and sour chicken and have a glass of wine (alas, it was way too hot!), for a bill of €36.

After lunch, we reach Takis at Katerina Rooms in Psarou. Takis proves to be an excellent host, shows us the room, and enthusiastically illustrates the activities to do on the island with a map; Katerina, his mother, also stands out by gifting us some eggs and a homemade sweet. We decide to spend a relaxing afternoon at the free pebble beach in the village. The pebbles are not comfortable at all, but we are the only users of this piece of land, before us only silence and very calm warm sea, we even find a shaded corner.

We head home early because we need to find a bakery for breakfast cookies and scout a tavern for dinner. A. suggests Lofos, a tavern on the hilltop, where we manage to see a beautiful warm sunset. We both opt for a Kokkinisto that turns out very good, and the bill is €26.50.

Right after dinner, and after the sunset, we return to our studio, where we have the delightful Assirtiko from A. waiting for us, to be enjoyed on the large terrace of Katerina and Takis.

Kalinikta!

Last day for us on the island of Zakynthos: the enjoyment begins with cookies from the baker of Psarou (right in front of the supermarket and delicious) with which we have breakfast with a sea view.

We then head to Porto Niova/Laperda beach (I don't understand where one ends and the other begins). We park behind the Porto Niova establishment and walk along the free beach until the end of the pebbly stretch. There is so much space that it feels like we are alone; we also find a little spot with some shade, but the surprise is when around lunchtime, just before we leave, I decide to continue along the beach and climb over a couple of rocks: a boat slip and behind it an abandoned farmhouse with a large lawn surrounded by enormous tamarisks, whose shade was enjoyed by a solitary man.

For us, it was already late, we had other plans, but remember this if you happen to be around. The day continues with a visit to Goumas winery, we opt for the more economical tour at €10 per person, and the young hospitality staff passionately offers us many tiny tastings of various wines from Mr. Goumas's portfolio. She also caters to our preferences, all dry wines, and even recommends a couple of vertical tastings, how kind!

Moreover, when you cross the external threshold of the winery, you immediately forget the chaos of Zakynthos, peace reigns here, with the typical architecture of exposed stone that we found in the Peloponnese, numerous fruit trees in the garden: an Eden in my opinion.

We bid farewell to the lovely family and head towards the village of Ammoudi; we had spotted a beach bar offering free sunbeds, the Menteni Beach Bar. We then have lunch at their tavern, A. orders grilled sardines and I have stuffed vegetables, a Mythos, a water, and they even treat us to a glass of Mastika, the bill is €27, very economical.

The sunbeds are right below the tavern, in a garden dominated by a gigantic plane tree that, along with our umbrella, protects us from the sun during our long afternoon nap: we wake up around six and decide to enjoy one last swim. Meanwhile, the sea gets a little choppy, but it's not dangerous as the water remains shallow for many meters.

We then say farewell to these kind hosts and head back home.

After the shower, I suggest to A. that we have dinner at Bougarini tavern, which I had read good reviews about from other guests of Katerina Rooms. However, it doesn't turn out to be a very good choice: we enter a garden surrounded by mulberry trees, and right in front of the first table, we find the need of a dog. We then move to another table, the owner hands us the menus, but when we order, some items are missing (that's fine, and I'm confident everything is fresh and typical of a family-run tavern). My Moussaka is replaced with a Papoutsakia, which according to the owner is a similar dish, but the price turns out to be double that of the original Moussaka. A. chooses lemon chicken.

We are the only patrons, and strangely the atmosphere is not relaxing at all; a half-pepper stuffed, a chicken leg, and two small wedge fries with still water cost us €32.50; the owners were watching TV and didn't think to clean the garden. This is not a tavern I recommend and I wouldn't go back, the only one I feel similarly about is Alektor.

Fortunately, at home, we recover from the culinary disappointment, indeed we still have half a bottle of Assirtiko from A..

After a delightful breakfast of cookies, we say goodbye to Katerina and leave her the keys to the studio. Slowly, we head toward the airport, stopping to grab coffee and a sandwich for the journey. This flight is also delayed by an hour; in truth, all flights are late, and the airport is overcrowded, but we manage to find a spot at least for one of us and arrived in Verona without too many hiccups.

A. is always happy and accommodating, so I'm not sure if he is genuinely pleased with this vacation, but I remain hopeful. Regarding my perceptions, Zakynthos is undoubtedly a beautiful island, with thousands of centuries-old olive trees, bathed by a spectacular sea (among the most beautiful I've ever seen), but the spark didn't ignite with me. Probably because I set off with prejudice: I had read that the island was hyper-touristic, that many taverns had lost their authenticity; and perhaps I didn't believe it could compare to my beloved Kefalonia, or Naxos.

In reality, there are places and people that still exude authenticity like Stathmos, To Diafkoreiko, the Goumas winery, Votsalo, Lofos, the beach of Porto Niova/Laperda, the guys at Menteni beach, Takis, Katerina, and the lady from the bakery in Psarou, the keeper of Panagia on Mount Skopos, Porto Steniti and Karakonissi.

If you've been to Naxos, don't think the cuisine is the same; I've never eaten as well as in Naxos on any island, nor even in the Peloponnese. All I can do is wish you the best in finding your personal corners on this island and happy sunny vacations!