Maldives: Mahibadhoo, the authentic Maldives

For a winter break this year, the choice fell on the Maldives, opting for a local island, given that the Maldivian government has allowed tourists to stay on the so-called "fishing islands" that were previously off-limits.

The group is all male as this is a fishing holiday: Dad, son, and friend enjoying a destination that is often reserved for couples.

The choice of Mahibadhoo is mainly due to the good impression the Liberty Guest House, run by locals, has on the web. I read that it is a fairly large island and the capital of the Southern Ari Atoll, thus hosting some services such as a court, high schools, and police.

It is hoped that besides relaxation, there will be some visits to a well-known state that has recently unveiled its authenticity.

We depart not without some anxiety from a traffic jam that raises blood pressure fearing we might miss the flight, then we relax on the always lovely Emirates.

After a short layover in Dubai, we land in Malé, the capital of the Maldives. Unfortunately, the boats that reach the local islands have quite limited schedules, so we chose to stay the first night in Hulhumale, the island that hosts the international airport and recently connected to Malé by a bridge built by the Chinese.

Initially, this solution seemed like a waste of half a vacation day, but in reality, it was very interesting as it allowed us to start getting to know the real Maldives. Hulhumale is a newly developed area ideal as an extension of the island of Malé, which is completely built up. Here, many buildings host mainly Maldivian and foreign workers (from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh) employed in the capital. The seaside area, however, is touristy. The beach is already beautiful, although there are strict clothing limitations since it is an Islamic country. Women, in particular, are required, as a form of respect, to wear at least a t-shirt and shorts. After a few hours at the beach, we explore the internal streets for some shopping and a first approach to local customs. We notice that vegetable prices are very high (quite understandable), to the extent that some people are forced to leave them with the grocer after weighing them and hearing the price. After a hearty dinner at an Indian restaurant, we enjoy tea by the sea and head straight to bed.

The next day, we were transferred to the Malé dock courtesy of the hotel staff (with a tip) and taken to Hulhumale on a public speedboat from HMHI Travel. The journey lasts about an hour and fifteen with two stops at other islands in Southern Ari Atoll. Thankfully, the sea was calm, making for a pleasant experience.

Upon arrival, we were welcomed by the guest house staff who loaded our luggage onto an electric tricycle and took us to the Mehel Guest House. Due to overbooking, they had informed us two days prior that we would need to stay at a neighboring hotel for a few nights while still enjoying meals at the main guest house. Although there was some disappointment at first, the accommodation turned out to be excellent and more immersed in the village of Mahibadhoo, which perhaps allowed us to appreciate it more.

Mahibadhoo is indeed a diamond-shaped island, with the only two beaches at either end: Liberty Beach where the namesake guest house is located (there are three or four in the whole island) and Bikini Beach at the opposite end, newly built with a fence allowing tourists to wear swimsuits without offending the local Muslim sensibilities. It takes about 15 minutes to walk from one end to the other. In between lies a quaint village with shops, a school, a hospital, and a football field where all local activities take place, marked by the melodious call of the muezzin. It's lovely to wander through the cobblestone streets and see children going to school in uniform, all strictly accompanied by veiled mothers or teenagers laughing at sunset on their scooters... yes, in a small flat island, there are many scooters (new and quiet) and two or three cars, namely those of the police, the ambulance, and the fire truck. There are also bars serving strictly non-alcoholic beverages and a few restaurants. However, we chose to have our meals at the guest house due to the unbelievably low prices.

Unfortunately, pollution is a constant issue in the Maldivian islands, as there is no waste collection service and the mentality of the people still needs to change significantly. Some attempts are being made to reduce plastic use through a potable water refill service, but I believe that greater efforts must be made by tourists and locals alike to ensure a future for this wonderful country.

During dinner, we met the boys from the guest house who offered us a rich selection of excursions. To save costs, they try to minimize boat trips and gather tourists for various excursions, so it may happen that a single boat is used for three different activities, leaving some people on a deserted island, others on a sandbank, and others to dive. This aspect might initially annoy, but indeed you notice their genuine effort to accommodate everyone without wasting too many resources: in the end, everyone still has fun. I believe that a vacation like this should be experienced with an open mind and ready for minor schedule changes without making a drama of it; otherwise, one risks ruining the experience. Unfortunately, some uninformed tourists believed they were in a resort (though paying less than half) and had absurd requests and even offensive behaviors towards the staff.... Oh well!

Equipped with fishing rods, we took pride in some good catches, measuring ourselves against the locals in the evening at the port under the lamplight after savoring a lemon juice at the local bar. An absolute must was the barbecue organized on the beach after a fishing trip, quickly savoring the fruits of our labor.

The week flew by filled with excursions and fishing outings, interspersed with exploratory walks to glimpse into local life. You can immediately tell that the people are not yet used to tourists, as the island has been open to foreigners for only a few years. The locals watch you with curiosity and wariness, exacerbated by the strict dictates of Islamic religion. There are hundreds of children, mainly because the main schools are located on the island. In the evening, there are fervent football matches taking advantage of the slightly cooler climate.

On departure day, we retraced our journey, this time hindered by a slightly rougher sea and a more crowded speedboat.

The last night was once again in Hulhumale because we didn't want to risk being left behind due to the tight timings between the boat transfer and the flight. We had to stop at the fantastic Indian restaurant from our first evening and spent our last hours relaxing on the beach with many local families, all dressed in long shirts and pants.

In short, it was definitely a positive experience that I recommend to everyone only if they are willing to trade some minor discomfort for the discovery of stunning places and a proud people whose beautiful country is struggling to maintain a balance between the threat of pollution and the rising ocean levels.